Method of and machine for effecting combined fastening and seam covering stitches



June 16, 1936. E, BUCHER 2,044,275

METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR EFFECTING" COMBINED FASTENING AND SEAM COVERING STITCHES Filed'Aug 31, 1933 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 June 16, W36. E. BUCHER 2044,2715" METHOD OF AND MACHINE FOR EFFECTING COMBINED FASTENING AND SEAM COVERING. STITCHES Filed Aug. a1, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented June 16 1936 a onor (COMBINED FASTE SE WV: name s'ri'roms j Ernst Bucher, Zurich, Switzerland, assignor to the firm Mauser-Wake A.-G., Oberndorf-ontlie-Neckar, Wurttemberg, Germany.

\ Application August 31, 1933, Serial No. 68?,686 J In Switzerland September 10, 1932 This invention relates to methods of and matrimming the fabric edges during the St tching chines for effecting combined fastening and seem operation more closely to the underside of the covering stitches for sewing two pieces of fabric fabric than was hitherto possible with sutures together and simultaneously covering the seam serving. for the same purpose. Thus, practically v 5 in such manner that the edges of both pieces no projectin edges remain untrimmed andthe 5 of fabric are trimmed during the seaming opersmall margina portion left is completely sewn ation and so fastened to each other that a suture in or' covered in perfectly 'flat manner by' the with a raised marginal portion as little as pos sewing needles provided for covering this projectsible is obtained and said portion is sewed down ing margin, without -impairing the strength of flat by means of covering stitching. the suture as compared to 'one whereby 'both 10 It is known to perform such seams in-two pieces of fabric have been pierced substantially working incidences in two difierent machines. It behind their edges. e is also known to efiect such seams in one work Still another advantage of the suture accord-' ing incidence in one and the same machine. All ing tothis invention resides in both pieces of the known modes of eiiecting seams of this kind fabric being fastenedtogether directly by a seam, l5

failed however to solve the problem involved in without the use of lap threads on the upper side an entirely satisfactory manner as required for of the seam or impairing the strength thereof in practical purposes, the cost of the work being the least. On the other hand lap threads may too great, for'examplewhen it is performed in be sewn in the seam, when required for ornatwo different working incidences. On the other mental purposes. Furthermore, due :to its par- 20 hand, the work is rendered too-expensive when, ticular nature, the suture according to the invendue to the particular nature o'fithe fastening tion can be effected-in different ways, namely seam, it isrequired to apply lapping threads on that the needle serving for fastening the two the upper side of the suture, thus necessitating fabric margins together either operates as the a considerable amount of additional thread ma middle needle of three or more parallel needles 25 terial. Or the use of lapping threads may result and is situated in the same plane with the other in rendering the seam on the'outer side of garneedles, or that this needle operates in detached ments too per'spicuous (for example in knitted leading position from the other needles in which upper garments and so forth), or becausepf the case the working incidence of fastening the pieces suture not being sufiiciently flat as during efiectof fabric together takes place somewhat earlier 30 ing the fastening seam'too voluminous alapwas than that of covering the seam. The diflerence formed, or else due to the sewing needles being between the two arrangements for performing positioned too far apart, the performance of v the combined seams consists in that in the former stitches in the form of pointed arches or similar .case but a, single suture is effected, whereas in '35 ornamental stitching is rendered impossible and the latter c'ase two independent stitchings are so forth. v effected, namely a fastening stitching and a seam The object of the present invention is to obvicovering stitching.

ate all these drawbacks. The method according In contradistinction to the most part of the I to the invention consists in fastening the pieces "hitherto known seam covering stitching effected 40 of fabric to be sewed together by means ofone of in asingle working incidence the novel suture 40 the needles required for effecting a plural needle has the further great advantage inherent thereto seam in such manner that one of the margins that in sewing tubular goods the suture is'eifected ispierced only at' its extreme edge, whereas the while the outsldeof the tube is turned outwardly, other fabric margin is pierced behind the edge. so that turningv the tube inside out after it has 4 Thisemode of stitching isot tainedby folding the left the sewing machine-is no longer necessary.

one fabric margin down at a c rtain angle in- Moreover, the novel suture is distinguished from wardly in the direction in which the respective the hitherto most used seam coveringfstitching. .piece of fabric is brought on, and themargin of efiected in two separate workingincidences by h the other piece of fabric is passed under the a'pleasing'aspect, the suture, due to the fabric first fabricmargin'so -as to egrtend in the same margins being fastened together in oblique rela- 50 f direction and thus in the direction opposite to 'tionship, being considerably flatter. Owing tothe that in which the second; piece of'fffabric is fact that the novel suture ofiers substantially brought on 5 ,if the same texture as the usual covering seams the The advantage obtairiedwith a suture. accordmanufacturer who is striving to keep. his machine ing to this invention consists in permitting of plant up to date, but could not furnish goods provided with two kinds of seams of entirely different texture, is enabled to carry out his rationalizing tendencies commensurate with his financial capacity. This possibility is not existing with the hitherto known compound trimming and seam covering machines requiring lap threads to be applied to the upper side of the fabric.

Ihe trimming of the fabric edges is eifected during one and the same working incidence by means ofa cutting mechanism the construction of whichdepends on the type of machine selected for effecting the suture (cylinder sewing machine, or machines adapted for feeding in the upward or downward direction of the arm respectively, or

else fiat sewing machines).

In the accompanying drawings the invention is illustratively exemplified in several modified forms in which Fig. l isa perspective view of a sewing ma chine used for carrying out the invention; I

Fig. 2 illustrates in a sectional view the manner of inserting the two pieces of fabric in the feed channel of the needle plate.

' shown in Fig. 3 severs both fabric Fig.. 3 illustrates in a cross section on the line III-III in Fig. 5 the sewing needles together with the manner in which the two pieces of fabric are folded at a certain angle and the knife in its position assumed just before trimming the-fabric edge;

Fig. 3a shows a cross section similar to Fig. 3 but with the knife in a lowered position after the severing of the fabric edge.

Fig. 3b shows a longitudinal section of the cutting mechanism in conjunction with the sew ing needles, the knife being mounted on the feed carrier by means of a holder;

' Fig. 3c is a top view of the thread gripping members and the knife;

Fig. 4 shows inacross section on the line I VIV in Fig. 5 the sewing needles, the trimmed'fabric edge and, the manner in which the left piece of fabric is pierced at the very edge and the right piece of fabric pierced substantially behind the edge, the fastening seam being in itsinitial stage fabric margins are further folded over and pierced by the needles, and the looper catches the needle thread loop of the ,left hand needle, the seam covering stitching having just begun;

Fig. 7 shows a longitudinal section of the fastening seam on the line VII-VII of the suture in Fig. 4 indicating the left piece of fabric to be pierced at its extreme edge and the right piece of fabric pierced substantially behind the edge; Fig. 8 depicts the fastening seam and the seam covering stitching as seen from the upper side (to the left in this figure) and as seen from the underside of the fabric (to the right in this Fig. 9 illustrates in a section through the needle plate the manner in which the two pieces of fabric are inserted in the feed channel of this plate in conjunction with a modified adjustable cutting mechanism which in distinction from the one horizontal direction;

Fig. 10 shows a section on the line XX in Fig.10a with the marginal portions of the two pieces of fabric folded at corresponding angles;

edges in the Fig. 10a is a plan view of the needle plate showing the feed device, the fabric feed channel and the knife;

- Fig. 11 shows a cross section on the line XIXI in Fig. 10a indicating both pieces of fabric to be 5 each pierced one time fully behind the edge by the left and right needles respectively and the .upper piece pierced at the very edge, and the lower piece pierced fully behind the edge by the middle needle, with the overlapping fabric margin extending horizontally and the looper catching the thread loop formed by the left needle;

Fig. 12 shows a longitudinal section through the suture on the line XII--XII in Fig. 11 at the pierced fully behind the edge;

Fig. 13 depicts the suture as seen from the upper and lower sides of the fabric to the left and to the right in this figure respectively;

Fig. 14 shows a longitudinal section of the cutting mechanism inclusive of the looper and needle;

Fig. 15 shows a plan view of the cutting mechanism with the looper and needle in their respec- 2 tive positions, and I Fig. 16 is a perspective view of the adjustable cutting mechanism, comprising means of varying the throw of the knife, inclusive of the drive for the looper shaft.

The Figs. 1 to 8 illustrate the manner in which a suture consisting of a fastening stitching and a seam covering stitching is eifected by means of a set of needles one of which is leading the others.

The Figs. 9 to 16 illustrate the manner in which a plural needle seam covering stitching or an over-cast seam is performed, all the needles being arranged parallel.

Fig. 1 shows by way of example, a cylinder sewing machine which is adapted for carrying out the method according to the invention and in which the fabric is fed upwardly on the arm. The machine comprises a needle bar I to the lower end of which the needles 2 are fastened. The needle bar is imparted its vertical reciprocating movement by means of a needle actuating lever 3 and a cam mechanism 4 arranged on the main drive shaft 5. The main drive shaft 5 is driven by means of a driving disc 6. The looper 50 shaftlfi (Figs. 3b and 16) is imparted its axial and radial movements, and the feed carrier its vertical reciprocating as well as advancing and retracting movements in a known manner (not shown) from the main shaft 5.

The manner in which the two pieces of fabric I and 8 are brought on for effecting the fastening and seam covering stitching is illustrated in Fig. 2. In this figure it is evident that both marginal portions of the two pieces of fabric are directed vertically downwardly in a feed channel 9. Fig. 5 shows the exact shape of the feed channel and the needle plate I0. Before effecting the fastening seam l I, the margins of the pieces of fabric are trimmed by means of a cuttingmechanism as a cutting knife I2 (Figs. 3, 3a, 3b, 3c, and 5). The knife l2 may be mounted on the feed dog I; by means of a connectingdevice l4 so as to be adjustable to height, thus transversely to the suture, as well as in the Tu direction of the same. As is well known, the fed dog l3 performs a horizontal and a vertical reciprocation. The knife i2 shares in these movements, as it is screwed to the carrier of the feed dog and engages in a slot Illa of the needle plate l (Fig. 5). With this arrangement the knife I? versa, thecutting edge of the knife being correspondingly shaped.

In the Figs. 9, 14, 15, and 16 a modified form of the cutting mechanism is illustrated. In distinction from the arrangement previously described, a cutting knife I5 (lower knife) is actuated by the oscillating looper snaft H5 at the forward end Ilia thereof. The entire cutting mechanism is connected with a mounting arm I! and the latter held by a carrier arm l8 (Fig. 16). Thus the,

whole assembly represents a self-contained unit positioned underneath the supporting plate for the fabric.

At the shaft end lSa, a T-shaped groove I9 (Figs. 14 and 16) is provided for receiving a square head 20a of a pin 20 in various -positions of adjustment corresponding to different throws of the knife. On this pin 20 a sleeve 2| is slid which can be held in any position of adjustment by means of a washer 22 and a nut 23. On the sleeve 21 is mounted for rotation a joint member 23 the forward end of which grips the lower end of a knife carrier lever 25 in the manner of a fork and which is connected thereto by a bolt 23a. The sleeve 2| being carried by the looper shaft l6, shares in the oscillating and the axial movements thereof.

The knife carrier lever 25 is rotatably mounted on a pin 26 and carries at its upper end the lower knife l5 which is secured to the lever by a screw 21. An upper knife 28 is secured to the upper end of a lever 29 by a screw 30. The latter lever is mounted for rotation at 3| and urged with its lower end on a regulating screw 33 by a spring 32. In this manner the upper knife 28 is resiliently arranged with respect to the lower knife it.

In order to permit of providing a smaller or greater width for the overlapping margin of fabric respectively, the lower knife is adjustabiy held in position by the eccentric pin 28 and the latter in turn is secured at H by a screw 33 (Figs. 9 and 14). The resiliently arranged upper knife 28 shares in these movements. The regulating screw 33 can be adjusted correspondingly to the desired cutting pressure to be exerted by the spring 32. The lower knife I5 is provided with a nose l5a (Fig. 15) which grips below the upper knife and thereby causes the two knives to properly cooperate at all times.

Upon severing the fabric, during effecting the fastening seam, the fabric is advanced in adaptation to the shape of the feed channel 3 towards the throat 35 (Fig. 5) with which the front needle 36 (Figs. 3, 3b, and 4) cooperates. Fig. 4 shows the manner in which the left piece or web of fabric is pierced at the very edge thereof or near the same, whereas the right web is pierced substantially behind its edge. This figure also shows the needle 36 to assume a vertical position. The looper 42 is just starting to catch the loop formed in the needle thread.

Fig. 7 depicts a longitudinal section through the fastening seam along the line VIIVII in Fig. 4,

the upper fabric layer shown in Fig. '7 to be considerably thicker representing the fabric which is pierced at the extreme edge only, whereas the lower much thinner fabric layer represents the fabric which is pierced as usual behind the edge. Thus, the web of fabric 1 is pierced only at its extreme edge and the web 8 pierced substantially behind the edge. The manner of interlacing the needle thread 31 with the looper thread 38 is also evident from Fig. 7.

' I6 is imparted an axial After the finishing of the fastening scam, the seam covering stitching is eifected with the numgin 39 extending horizontally (Fig. 6). This figure shows the two layers of fabric 1 and 3 to be pierced by the needles 38 and M respectively and 5 the looper M to be just starting to catch the left needle thread loop, and on further advancing in the direction of the arrow to catch also the right needle thread loop (Figs. 6 and 3c) During the return movement of the looper M, the looper shaft displacement towards the front, the webs of fabric 1 and 8 are pushed rearwardly by the feed dog 43, and the two needles 40 and M moved downwardly to pierce the webs of fabric I, 8 and to project into the trianl5 gular loop of the looper thread (not shown). Thereby the marginal portion 39 along the suture is sewed down and the seam covering stitching performed. The manner in which the two needle threads 44 and 35 for the covering stitch and the under-thread d6 interlace is evident from Fig. 8. Furthermore, the Fig. 8 shows the fastening seam H and the seam covering stitching M, 35, 66 as seen from the upper and lower side (the upper side is shown to the left and the lower side to the right).

A modified form of carrying out the combined fastening and seam covering stitching according to the invention is shown in the Figs. 2, 9, and 14. The Figs. 2 and 9 show the marginal portions of the two pieces of fabric to be inserted in the feed channels 9 and 9a respectively in downwardly directed position. Fig. 100. illustrates the exact shape of the feed channel to of the needle plate 3 Nib.

, In connection with this example, Fig. 10a shows the three needles 48a, 48b, 33c to be aligned. Therefore, the three needles cooperate, as compared with the previously described example of the combined fastening and seam covering stitching, with only one looper 33 (Fig. 11). thus working with three needle threads and one underthread. In Fig. 11 is indicated how the middle needle 68b pierces the extreme edge of the upper web of, fabric, whereas at the same time the left needle 38a and the right needle 58c pierce both webs i, 3 respectively substantially behind the edge. In Fig. 12, which illustrates a longitudinal section of the suture on the line IflI-JIII in Fig.

11, it is evident that the upper web of fabric which 50 is shown to be considerably thicker, is the one pierced at the extreme edge, whereas the lower web, which is shown to be thinner, is pierced substantially behind the edge. Thus also here the web of fabric 1 is pierced only at the very edge and -.the web 8 wholly behind the edge, by the same needle.

Before the piercing at the extreme end of an edge or wholly behind the edges is effected by the needles, the overlapping margin of the suture is changed from a vertical disposition to a horizontal disposition in conformity to the shape of the feed channel 9a (Fig. 11) In this figure it is evident that the looper $9 is just starting to catch the loop formed in the thread of the needle 48a and in keeping on moving in the direction of the arrow will also catch the loops in the threads of the middle needle 48b and the right needle 480. 1 During the return movement of the looper 49,

the looper shaft I6 is imparted an axial movement of the suture is layed down flat and the seam covering stitching effected. The manner in which the threads of the three needles 50a, 50b, 50c forthe seam covering stitch and the underthread 5| interlace is evident from Fig. 13. This figure also shows the seam covering stitching from the upper and lower sides (to the left the upper side and to the right the underside).

I do not limit myself to the particular size, shape, number or arrangement of parts as shown and described, all of which may be variedwithout going beyond the scope of my invention as shown, described and claim What I claim is:

bined fastening and seam covering stitches on fabrics to be sewed together, the steps of guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation at any convenient angle to a common direction of stitching towards the position of sewing, trimming the edges of said downwardly folded marginal portions close up to the fabrics, piercing the folded marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal portion of the lower fabric, for effecting the fastening stitching, and piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the edges of said marginal portions on the underside of the flat seam.

2. In a method of mechanically efiecting com-, bined fastening and seam covering stitches on fabrics to be sewed together, the steps of guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation at any convenient angle to a common direction of stitching towards the position of sewing, trimming the edges of said downwardly folded marginal portions close up to the fabrics at equal lengths from the fold in the upper fabric, folding said marginal portions down flat onto the underside of the upper fabric, piercing the marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal portion of the lower fabric, for effecting the fastening stitching, and simultaneously piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the superposed edges of said marginal portions on the underside of said upper fabric.

3. In a method of mechanically effecting combined fastening and seam covering stitches onfabrics to be sewed together, the steps of guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation on the skew to a common direction of stitching towards the position of sewing, trimming the edges of said downwardly folded marginal portions close up to the fabrics at equal lengths from the fold in the upper fabric, piercing the marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal effecting the fastening stitching, folding said marginal portions down fiat onto the underside of the upper fabric, and piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the superposed edges of said marginal portions on the underside of said upper fabric. 4. In a method of mechanically effecting a plural needle seam on fabrics to be sewed together, the steps of piercing with one needle two marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation on the skew to a common direction of stitching and having been trimmed conjointly in positive parallelism with portion of the lower fabric, for I 1 2,044,275 and 8. In this'manner the marginal portion 390 said line of piercing at equal lengths from the fold in said upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold for effecting the fastening stitching, folding said marginal portions down flat onto the underside of said upper fabric; and piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold for effecting the stitching for covering the superposed edges of said marginal portions on the underside of said upper fabric. 7

5. In a machine for effecting combined fastening and seam covering stitches on fabrics to be sewed together, in combination, a needle plate cooperating with three sewing needles recipro cating in a common direction of stitching, a

1 means comprised by said needle plate adapted 1. In a method of mechanically effecting comfor guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining ,each other in a downwardly folded relation at any convenient angle to said common direction of stitching towards said sewing needles, a cutting mechanism cooperating with said guide means ahead of said needles, for trimming the edges of said downwardly folded marginal portions close up to the fabrics, and actuating means for said needles adapting the same for piercing the folded marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal portion of the lower fabric, for effecting the fastening stitching, and for piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the edges of said marginal portions on the underside of the flat seam.

6. .In a machine for eifecting combined fastening and seam covering stitches on fabrics to be sewed together, in combination, a needle plate cooperating with three sewing needles reciprocatfor said cutting mechanism, a. fabric feed device operatively connected with said cutting mechanism and adapted for feeding said marginal fabric portions through said guide means, means for adjusting said cutting mechanism relatively to said needle plate and transversely to the direction of the seam as well as longitudinally thereof, and actuating means for said needles adapting the same for piercing the folded marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal portion of the lower fabric, for efiecting, the fastening stitching and for piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the edges of said marginal portions on the underside of the flat seam.

7.. In a machine for effecting combined fastening and seam covering stitches on fabrics to be sewed together, in combination, a needle plate cooperating with three sewing needles reciprocating in a common direction of stitching, a guide means comprised by said needle plate adapted for guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation at any convenient angle to said common direction of stitching towards said sewing needles, looper ahead of said needles and said looper means, a lower movably arranged knife and an upper resiliently arranged knife comprised by said cutting mechanism, means for adjusting said cutting mechanism for trimming the edges of said marginalv fabric portions different lengths away from the fabrics, a fabric feed device operatively connected with said cutting mechanism and adapted for feeding said marginal fabric portions through said guide means, and actuating means for said needles adapting the same for piercing the folded marginal-portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginalportion of the lower fabric, for effecting the fastening stitching, and for piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the edges of said marginal portions on the underside of the flat seam.

.8. In a machine for effecting. combinedv fastening and seam covering stitches on fabricsto be sewed together, in combination, a needle plate cooperating with three sewing needles reciproeating in a common direction of stitching, a'guldemeans comprised by said needle plate adapted for guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation at any convenient angle to said common direction of stitching towards said sewing needles, looper means cooperating with said needles, a cutting mechanismcooperating with said guide means ahead of said needles and said looper means, a lower movably arranged knife and an upper resiliently arranged knife comprised by said-cutting mechanism, means for adjusting said lower knife vertically for trimming the edges of said marginal fabric portions different lengths away from the fabrics, a fabric feed device operatively connected with said cutting mechanism and adapted for feeding said marginal fabric portions through said guide means, and actuating means for said needles adapting the same for piercing the folded marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at' the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal portion ofthe lower fabric, for efiecting the fastening stitching and for piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching forcovering the edges of said marginal portions on the underside of the flat seam.

9. In a machine for effecting combined fastening and seam covering stitches on fabrics to be sewed together, in combination, a fabric supporting plate, a needle plate cooperating with three sewing needles reciprocating in a common direction of stitching, a means in said needle .plate adapted for guiding the marginal fabric portions adjoining each other in a downwardly folded relation at any convenient angle to said common direction of stitching towards said sewing needles, looper means cooperating with said needles, a cutting mechanism in the form of a self-contained unit arranged underneath said fabric supporting plate and cooperating with said guide means ahead of said needles and said looper means, a.lower movably arranged knife and an upper resiliently arranged knife comprised by said cutting mechanism, means for adjusting said lower knife vertically for tr n z". r g the edges of said marginal fabric portions difierent lengths away from the fabrics, a fabric feed device opera-.

tively connected with said cutting mechanism and adapted for feeding said marginal fabric portions through said guide means, and actuating means for said needles adapting the same for piercing the folded marginal portion of the upper fabric at least at the extreme edge of said fold and the marginal portion of the lower fabric, for effecting. the fastening stitching, and for piercing both fabrics on either side of said fold, for effecting the stitching for covering the edges of said marginal portions on the underside of the hat 

